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Christelle Castro – Continue Reading BelowThis article originally appearedin the May 2016 issue of ELLE.”I think that when you rally powerful voices around powerful issues, what you get are positive results,” says Kerby Jean-Raymond ferienhaus-starnberger-see , the 29-year-old designer behind upstart menswear brand Pyer Moss. He’s standing in his old-school atelier and factory in Manhattan’s Garment District, where a team of two patternmakers and three seamstresses make his collection by hand. It’s five days after his fall 2016 New York Fashion Week show, titled “Double Bind”—a meditation, he says, on the tension and anguish that exist when conflicting demands are placed on an individual. The conflicting demands that motivate Jean-Raymond: his desire to explore issues that matter deeply to him while appealing to luxury retailers. This collection, inspired by the designer’s own anxiety—a sense of “the weight of the world crushing me,” he says—featured men and women wearing chauffeur’s hats adorned with neon buttons advertising an abecedarium of mood-altering substances, from Acid to Zoloft, while 16 opera singers reinterpreted Future and Fetty Wap songs to sound, says Jean-Raymond, “the way a melancholy person might experience trap music.”Andrew Boyle – Continue Reading BelowThe show was relatively mild-mannered compared to that of spring 2016, shown last September, when Jean-Raymond made waves by bringing Black Lives Matter to the runway—a move that inspired praise in the press and elicited death threats toward the designer on social media. At that show, his sixth since launching his company in 2013, Jean-Raymond screened a film compiled of interviews with family members of victims of police brutality, plus graphic footage of the shooting of Walter Scott in North Charleston, South Carolina, and the choke-hold death of Eric Garner on Staten Island. Graffiti artist Gregory Siff customized Dr. Martens with fake blood-splatters and the credo “To Serve and Protect.” “It was reflective of what was happening in the time canada goose jacket on sale , but it was also reflective of a lot of things that happened in my past, too,” Jean-Raymond says. “I felt I couldn’t stay silent.” The designer was raised in the East Flatbush neighborhood of Brooklyn, the son of Haitian immigrants. His father, who studied medicine in Port-au-Prince, spent most of his working life in New York as an appliance repairman; his late mother, Vania Moss Pierre (the label’s namesake: Pyer closely resembles the Haitian spelling of Pierre), worked as a home health-care aide, hairstylist, and seamstress. Jean-Raymond got his first job in fashion at just 14, after acting out at Manhattan’s High School of Fashion Industries. His teacher gave him an ultimatum: Face suspension, or take an internship at the women’s-wear brand Kay Unger. He chose the latter; Unger eventually hired him as a part-time assistant designer and is still his mentor. She encouraged him to work on the launch of her friend Georgina Chapman’s line, Marchesa, during his junior year of high school. – Continue Reading Below – Continue Reading BelowGregory SiftNot long afterward, when Jean-Raymond was 18 and majoring in entrepreneurship and Africana studies at Hofstra University on Long Island, he says he was yanked out of his car window and slammed against the trunk by a police officer during a traffic stop. And this past August, he says cops mistook the cast on his hand (broken in a Jet Ski accident) for a gun and trained their weapons on him. “I want to start a revolution among fashion people to do more than just the basic shit,” Jean-Raymond says. His meaning is twofold: First, he aims to use fashion shows as a platform to advocate for the dispossessed and address racial injustice. “You have these megabrands who make most of their money off hip-hop culture,” Jean-Raymond says. “Where were they in the time of need?” But he’s also talking about the clothes themselves. For fall, his workwear shapes in luxe fabrications display an obsessive attention to craftsmanship and detail that’s far from basic. In pursuit of a precise “prisony” hue, as he calls it, for elongated military coats and double-layer trousers in Japanese denim, he built a makeshift lab in the broom closet of his atelier, where he tinkered with the proportions of cerulean, yellow, cream, and olive-green dyes until he achieved satisfaction. Similar thought went into recontextualizing classic garments, such as a trompe l’oeil silk-lapel “tuxedo” made from tracksuit material, and a quilted button-up and overalls that resemble a puffer coat. – Continue Reading BelowIt was a pair of shearling overalls that earned Jean-Raymond a fan in singer-songwriter Erykah Badu; she paired the pants with a towering top hat for an appearance promoting But You Caint Use My Phone, the mixtape she released this past November. She was reluctant to give them back, so he proposed a compromise: If she’d step in as a stylist for the “Double Bind” show, she could keep the overalls. The Grammy winner found not just a collaborator but a kindred spirit. “We both agree we feel spiritual first, human second, black or white third,” Badu says. “All those are just our circumstances here on the planet.” As for Jean-Raymond, “I want to be fashion’s Erykah Badu,” he says. “What I admire about her is her timelessness and her fearless approach. Music has always been my first love, and I appreciate how a great musician can bring awareness to tough issues through their work.” “We both agree we feel spiritual first, human second, black or white third.”While Jean-Raymond could be considered a product of his era—a compadre of streetwear-influenced luxury brands such as Hood by Air and Off-White, who’ve upended both gender binaries and traditional menswear—it’s hard to think of another designer working today who is using fashion to talk about race and human relations so explicitly, and for whom the motivation is so deeply personal.While Jean-Raymond says he has found solace in therapy and through giving voice to his problems, he recognizes that not everyone is so lucky. The model who closed his fall show carried a picket sign that read, “My demons won today I’m sorry”—the final Facebook post of 23-year-old MarShawn McCarrel, a Black Lives Matter supporter who committed suicide in February. In his community, Jean-Raymond says, addressing mental illness is still taboo. “We’re told, ‘Don’t be a little bitch,'” he says. “That’s not a diagnosis! I was addressing men with their macho stigma that it’s not okay to talk about your feelings.” In an increasingly commercial fashion landscape, the designer is finding a way to comment on deeper, and distinctly noncommercial, problems. “I think as a fashion community we can do so much better,” he says. “We touch everybody. We have such influence over what’s cool and what’s not cool. Why not use that sometimes to maybe try to help somebody else?”

Kerby Jean-Raymond and Erykah Badu Team Up to Bring Awareness to Mental Health

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